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      Updated Information | Date | Camp Site or Accommodations | GPS | 
      
      
      Distance  Today:
       279km | Meals 
       Soup and Salad | Weather |  
      | Pilanesburg NP, South 
      Africa | 25 June, 2004 | Bakgatla Camp | 
      25°11.338’S27°08.944’E
 | Odometer:  25502km | Sunny, 70(F) Degrees, Cold 
      at Night |  
      | We’ve been staying with Slade’s sister Vanessa 
      and her boyfriend Gordon in Johannesburg for the past week since returning 
      from Tanzania. Slade, Krissy, and Vicky picked us up at the airport last 
      Friday and took us to an off road/camping/overlanding expo where we looked 
      around at all the goodies and bought a couple of items. Americans think 
      they have the camping thing all nailed down, but in truth they’ve got 
      nothing on the South Africans, especially when it comes to combining 
      camping with four wheeling. Jen and Vicky enjoyed a little trampoline 
      bungy, which may have been almost as much fun to watch as to do. We had 
      planned to spend only a few days in Joburg, but we felt so comfortable at 
      Vanessa and Gordon’s house that we didn’t want to leave. Gordon’s son 
      Jason took Witt and Slade bass fishing, and the girls got to spend some 
      time in a real shopping mall. Evenings were spent mostly around the braai, 
      although Witt, Jen, and Krissy made burritos one evening. On Monday night 
      we went to the legendary Butcher Shop restaurant for a send-off meal for 
      Vicky who is flying to NZ on Tuesday. The restaurant is just as Slade has 
      been describing it for the past two months. The butcher led us into a 
      refrigerator where we selected our cut of meat and the size we wanted. 
      Slade got a 900 gram (two pounds) T-bone, and Witt, shamefully opted for 
      the 500 gram “lady’s cut” of sirloin. The meat was excellent. We almost 
      felt civilized after eating at such a nice restaurant, except that we had 
      to climb on top of the Land Rover to lift the height restriction barrier 
      in order to get in and out of the parking lot. The next day we drove Vicky 
      to the airport. It was sad for Witt and Jen to see her go; I can’t imagine 
      how Krissy and Slade felt after traveling with her for the better part of 
      a year. Witt and Slade replaced a leaking seal in Rafiki’s transfer case 
      and changed the oil. Slade replaced a similar seal in Sid’s rear 
      differential. On Wednesday evening Witt and Jen went to dinner at a pub 
      with Graham Wilde and his wife Tonya. Graham operates the website 
      tracks4africa, and was interested to hear our story. On Thursday evening 
      Graham and Connie arrived in town with her parents, an occasion which 
      necessitated another trip to the Butcher Shop. On Friday morning Witt and 
      Jen finally said goodbye and headed North for a few hours to Pilanesburg 
      National Park. We spent the remainder of the day driving around the park 
      We’re still looking for leaopard, the only one of the “big five” we 
      haven’t seen. We did get an excellent close up look at some elephant and a 
      white rhino. |  
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      Updated Information | Date | Camp Site or Accommodations | GPS | 
      
      
      Distance  Today:414km
 | Meals 
       Stir-Fried Beef | Weather |  
      | Near Mahalapye, Botswana | 26 June, 2004 | BushCamp | 
       23°41.008’S26°30.271’E
 | Odometer:  25916km | Sunny, 80(F)degrees
 |  
      | Last night we were very glad to have our down 
      sleeping bags as it got cold enough for frost to form on the car. We 
      poured some of the hot chocolate we made in the thermos last night and 
      spent the morning on a game drive in the park. We saw some rhino and 
      elephant, but no cats. At eleven we left the park and headed north toward 
      Botswana. We crossed the border on a minor road and soon emerged onto 
      Botswana’s A1 highway. We drove until about 5 pm and pulled off the road 
      to bushcamp. A partially overcast sky provided a beautiful sunset and kept 
      the temperature much warmer than last night. |  
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      Updated Information | Date | Camp Site or Accommodations | GPS | 
      
      
      Distance  Today:
       
      502km
 | Meals 
       braai'd chicken | Weather |  
      | Kubu Island | 27 June, 2004 | Kubu Island Camping | 
       20°53.560’S25°49.341’E
 | Odometer:  25223km | Partly Cloudy, 85(F)degrees
 |  
      | Yesterday morning Rafiki had a little trouble 
      starting, which is unusual. I ascribed it to the cold weather and didn’t 
      think much more about it. This morning, however, the temperature was quite 
      mild and the car had the same problem. It appeared as though the fuel line 
      had come loose from the metal end of the injector pump, so I pushed it 
      further on and tightened the hose clamp. After stopping for lunch in Somwe, 
      the car again didn’t want to start. Closer inspection showed that a 
      disused fitting from the original fuel line assembly had worn a hole in 
      the metal end of the injector pump causing a loss of pressure. It seems to 
      run fine once it’s started and the fuel loss is minimal, so I plan to talk 
      with Graham about it when we meet him in Moremi on Monday. We drove all 
      afternoon and turned north toward Makadikadi pans at about 4 pm. The pans 
      are an old part of the Okavango Delta that the water no longer reaches. An 
      hour on dirt tracks and salt pans brought us to Kubu Island, an oasis of 
      baobab trees in the middle of a salt pan. It’s a popular tourist spot, 
      reputed to have the second best sunsets in Africa. The local community has 
      taken to charging 126 pula to camp there. The people are friendly though 
      and the beautiful camp sites are spotlessly clean. We enjoyed another 
      lovely sunset, built a fire and grilled some peri-peri chicken and corn on 
      the cob. We enjoyed a nice bottle of wine and sat talking until late. |  
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       Makadikadi Pans
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      | 
      
      Updated InformationWitt & Jen
 | Date | Camp Site or Accommodations | GPS | 
      
      
      Distance  Today:
       
      401km | Meals 
       Tuna sandwiches for lunch, skipped 
      dinner | Weather |  
      | Moremi National Park, 
      Botswana | 28 June, 2004 | South Gate campground | 
       19°25.522’Sx 23°38.710’E
 | Odometer:  26317km | Partly cloudy, 85(F) degrees |  
      | We left Kubu island this morning after a 
      leisurely breakfast. We drove north through the pan arriving back on 
      sealed roads at the town of Gweta shortly after lunch. The drive through 
      the pan was beautiful with long stretches of open grasslands, and desolate 
      salt pans, all topped off with an enormous blue sky. We arrived in Maun at 
      about 4pm and ran into Graham, Connie, Debbie, and Brian at the 
      supermarket. We had heard that we had to be inside the park by sundown, so 
      we quickly did our shopping, topped up our fuel tanks, and headed out of 
      town. The trip to south gate took longer than expected, and we didn’t 
      reach the park until after 7pm. We did enjoy seeing some elephant and a 
      cheetah on the road leading into the park, lit up by our headlights. The 
      facilities at the campground are basic but adequate, with a wood fired 
      boiler for hot showers. Botswana has adopted the high-cost, low volume 
      approach to tourism. Park entry, camping, and vehicle permits cost a total 
      of 270 pula or $US60 per day for two people in one car. |  
      | 
       Campsite on Kubu Island
 |  |  
      | On to Botswana..... |  |